Nordvest

Northwest beyond Nørrebro — the city's up-and-coming, still rough-around-the-edges frontier.

From the unpolished and authentic to natural wine and freshly roasted coffee, Nordvest has it all — and one sight above all: Grundtvig's Church, the staggering brick cathedral up on Bispebjerg.

The highlights: Grundtvigs Kirke, Bispebjerg Cemetery.

Rentemestervej is the one to wander — the new wave of cafés, makers and small shops keeps growing along it.

Flere Fugle on Rentemestervej 57 — the neighbourhood's beloved bakery, which doubles as a natural-wine spot.

Harry's Place on Nordre Fasanvej 269 — the old-school grill bar for a burger or a bøfsandwich — plus honest, cheap local diners and takeaways.

Kaffedepartementet on Rentemestervej 64 — freshly roasted and properly made.

Autopoul on Hejrevej 31 — an old auto mechanic's workshop turned bar, pouring natural wine, beer and cider.

Bike it (15 minutes from the centre), take the S-train towards Bispebjerg, or hop on bus 5C.

A couple of hours — Grundtvig's Church plus a coffee.

It's a normal residential district, some parts just less polished than the centre. The area closest to Nørrebro can be a bit edgy at night, normal city awareness.

Repeat visitors, architecture fans and urban explorers.